caftanTextiles & Garments

The Moroccan caftan: A documented authenticity… from the royal court to the global red carpet

The Moroccan caftan cannot be understood outside of its local cultural context; it is not a garment imported from Persia or Anatolia, as stereotypical accounts suggest, but rather a natural extension of the Moorish dress for which Morocco was known before Christ, and which developed over centuries from the ancient Moroccan state until it reached its peak in the Marinid era.

 One garment, but it bears the full “country mark”.

When we talk about the ” Made in Morocco label in its cultural and luxurious dimension, the Moroccan kaftan stands out as one of its strongest manifestations:
a single garment that combines:

  • A historical depth spanning centuries,
  • Institutional recognition of it as part of Moroccan heritage,
  • Global reach across fashion platforms, cinema, and presidential and royal palaces.
  • It has a strong presence among celebrities and stars who have voluntarily chosen it to be part of their public image.

What follows is not merely a poetic description, but a documentary attempt based on multiple modern sources to prove:

  1. The authenticity of the Moroccan caftan and its historical connection to Morocco,
  2. His popularity both inside and outside Morocco,
  3. And most importantly: how he became an unofficial ambassador for the “Made in Morocco” brand worldwide.

 The authenticity of the Moroccan caftan: from historical roots to international recognition

The Moroccan roots of the caftan: from pre-Christian Moorish dress to the Marinid caftan

The Moroccan caftan cannot be understood outside of its local cultural context; it is not a garment imported from Persia or Anatolia, as stereotypical accounts suggest, but rather a natural extension of the Moorish dress for which Morocco was known before Christ, and which developed over centuries from the ancient Moroccan state until it reached its peak in the Marinid era.

Moorish dress before Christ: The first seed of authority attire in ancient Morocco

The Moors (Mauri/Maures), inhabitants of ancient Morocco before the Common Era and during the reign of the Kingdom of Mauretania, wore a long, imposing garment, often straight-cut with medium or narrow sleeves, made of fine wool or linen.
This attire was not arbitrary but rather a symbol of power and prestige, as evidenced in Roman sculptures and inscriptions documenting the clothing of Moorish kings such as Bocchus I and Bocchus II .

Its main characteristics were:

  • Length and straightness

  • The belt (resembling the Mdamma)

  • structured sleeves

  • Simple geometric patterns

These structural elements would later continue in all formal Moroccan clothing, including the caftan.

The Beka’as (rulers of Mauretania Tingitana): A period of refinement and extravagance

With the Kingdom of Mauretania Tingitana coming under the rule of the “Beka’as” (local governors under Roman influence), Moorish dress underwent an evolution in its ornamentation and materials. The
following appeared:

  • finer weave fabrics

  • finer colors

  • Decorative belts for upper classes

  • Light embroidery on the edges

The Moorish dress has retained its identity, but it has begun to enter a stage of “elegance,” a first step towards a later development that will make it the elite Moroccan dress par excellence.

 The Almoravid and Almohad eras: Framing dress within state protocol

With the rise of the Almoravid and later the Almohad states, the court needed formal attire to express the power of the state and the unity of its identity. The word “caftan” had not yet appeared in its current form, but the long , straight-cut ” Moroccan robe
” emerged , made first from high-quality wool, and later from silk imported from Andalusia.

Characteristics of this stage:

  • A long, straight dress similar to a kaftan

  • Clear belt for waist definition

  • Simplicity in design with luxury in materials

  • The adoption of clothing as a political symbol by the Caliphs

This is important because the Moroccan caftan is not just women’s clothing; it was born as the clothing of men of authority before it became a luxurious women’s garment.

 The Marinid era (13th–15th century AD): The birth of the Moroccan caftan in its distinctive form

It was at this particular stage that the Moroccan caftan reached the peak of its development and took on a form that can be recognized today.

Why is the Marinid era a decisive phase?

Because the Marinids:

  • They established a high-end weaving and dyeing network in Fez.

  • They brought the most skilled craftsmen from Andalusia and integrated them into Moroccan weaving.

  • They established a court protocol based on elegant, long dresses.

  • They incorporated elements of Moroccan ornamentation such as: sfifa (braided trim), silk carpets, and gold thread embroidery.

It was during this specific period that the following appeared:

✔ The Moroccan Sfifa

The technique of twisting silk thread is unique to this country.

Al-Aqqad

Traditional Moroccan buttons with an aesthetic and geometric function.

✔ The Marinid Cut

A straight, elegant, luxurious cut, different from all other oriental cuts.

The caftan as a dress of the Marinid court

It is no longer just clothing, but:

  • Judges’ robes

  • Ministers’ clothing

  • diplomatic correspondence attire

  • Grand ceremonial attire of the court

From here the caftan began to take its place as a formal Moroccan dress .

 From formal wear to women’s clothing

During the following centuries (the Saadian and Alaouite dynasties), the caftan continued to evolve, and women gradually began to adopt it, especially in major cities like Fez, Marrakesh, and Tetouan.
By the 19th and 20th centuries, the caftan had transformed into a festive women’s garment, and then into an icon of Moroccan fashion.


A 100% Moroccan historical summary

  • The caftan originated in Morocco, starting from the Moorish dress before Christ.

  • It developed through the Beys, then through powerful Moroccan states (Almoravids, Almohads).

  • It reached its peak and complete identity in the Marinid era.

  • Then it settled (became) in its current form during the Saadi and Alawite eras.

The caftan is not “imported” from the East, but rather it is the history of an entire Moroccan state , and a witness to the development of Moroccan society over 20 centuries.

In Morocco, the caftan has been associated for centuries with:

  • The royal court and the scientific and political elites,

  • Cities with special traditions in the caftan, such as Fez and Tetouan , with clear differences in the cut and decoration between them.

  • A gradual evolution from formal attire for the elite to attire for weddings and special occasions for the general public.

Specialized studies in the history of the caftan in Morocco indicate that this garment, as we know it today with its cuts and decorations (sfifa, aqad, Fassi style…), is the fruit of an internal Moroccan accumulation that lasted for centuries , until it came to be presented in academic literature as “the jewel of Moroccan traditional industry” and an extension of the identity of the Makhzen court.

 From scientific debate… to an official UNESCO file

Authenticity here is built not only on national discourse, but also on international institutional steps :

  1. ISESCO Recognition:
    Moroccan press reports indicate that ISESCO has recognized the art of the caftan as part of Morocco’s intangible heritage , within a broader context of interest in traditional Moroccan dress within the Islamic cultural system.

  2. UNESCO 2025 File: “The art, traditions and knowledge of the Moroccan caftan industry”

This path practically means that the Moroccan state itself presents the caftan as an authentic expression of its national heritage , and defends it at the level of international organizations as part of its official cultural identity.


Moroccan Caftan
Moroccan Caftan

The Moroccan caftan as a garment and as a system of luxury manufacturing

Authenticity alone is not enough to explain the continuity of the caftan; what guarantees its presence is that it is a complete economic/craft system :

complex value chain

Multiple studies on the Moroccan caftan show that it is the result of a comprehensive process that includes:

  • The designer : creating the story, choosing the aesthetic reference (traditional/contemporary/mixing the two).

  • Supplying luxury fabrics : silk, velvet, brocade, lace… a large part of which is imported today, which opens the door to a local luxury textile industry in the future.

  • Cutting and sewing : Engineering cutting in an economical and precise way to avoid wasting expensive fabrics.

  • The “Teachers” system :

    • Hand embroidery (Fassi, Rabati,…),

    • The production of “Safifa” and “Aqqad” in specialized workshops.

    • Beadwork and inlaying with crystals and stones,

    • The final installation of the trim on the caftan.

  • Finishing and quality : Lining, ironing, measuring, and preparation for delivery or display on a fashion runway.

Each of these stages translates into real job opportunities and specialized crafts, making the caftan not just a piece sewn in two days, but a fully-fledged Moroccan haute couture product .

 The caftan as a form of “human research and development”

Many analytical articles about the caftan indicate that it represents a kind of living human “research and development (R&D)” in the field of crafts:

  • Preserving the techniques of braiding, gold embroidery, and knotting.

  • Transferring skills from the teacher to the trainee.

  • Adapting the haircuts to global tastes without compromising the traditional spirit .


The popularity of the caftan inside and outside Morocco

 A firm presence in Moroccan life

Several sources specializing in Moroccan culture and fashion confirm that the caftan:

  • It is the primary women’s celebratory dress for weddings, henna parties, circumcisions, holidays, and major family occasions.

  • It is also present at official events and diplomatic receptions , where princesses and Moroccan officials appear in luxurious kaftans.

This daily/celebratory presence is what ensures that the caftan is not a “museum piece,” but a living heritage that is renewed with each generation.

 Regional popularity: from Algeria to the Middle East

Interestingly, even the press in neighboring countries acknowledges the popularity of the Moroccan caftan among their people.

  • Algerian press reports , for example, indicate that the Moroccan caftan, despite its high price compared to local traditional clothing, is widely popular, and is sometimes sold as a “ready-made” garment and worn at weddings with clear local adoption.

In the Middle East, and North Africa in general, the Moroccan caftan has become a luxury choice for weddings and evening events , especially in the Gulf, where Moroccan shops and designers or those specializing in the “Moroccan style” are widespread.

 The role of the Moroccan community in Europe and America

A published study on the caftan indicates that the Moroccan caftan’s global fame before the 1990s was limited , and that the major transformation occurred with the migration of Moroccans to Europe and America ; they brought with them wedding customs and the caftan, so it became part of the visual landscape in cities such as Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam, Montreal…

  • The Moroccan community abroad is estimated to number in the millions, and their occasions (weddings, holidays, parties) have become a natural showcase for the caftan in front of their foreign neighbors and friends.

  • Recent articles document how young Moroccan women in Paris, Montreal, and Amsterdam present their kaftans on Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest in photos and videos that blend European streetscapes with the aesthetic background of the Moroccan kaftan, creating a globally appealing “Hybrid” image.


 The caftan on international catwalks: from “Caftan du Maroc” to “Oriental Fashion Show”

 Caftan / Caftan du Maroc – The Moroccan Haute Couture Platform

Since 1996 , Femmes du Maroc magazine has launched the “Caftan” show , which has quickly become the most important event for Moroccan haute couture , where top designers gather to showcase their contemporary visions of the caftan.

The event evolved into:

  • An almost official facade for the image of the caftan in front of the international press.

  • A space for the emergence of Moroccan names specializing solely in the caftan,

  • A global marketing platform for “Made in Morocco” products in the luxury fashion sector.

 Oriental Fashion Show – When the caftan steals the show in Paris

Recent press coverage of the Oriental Fashion Show in Paris clearly indicates that:

  • The Moroccan caftan was the star of the shows in multiple editions.

  • Moroccan fashion houses (such as Amina Benzekri Benrahal, Hind Berrada, and others) presented collections that dazzled the audience in the French capital.

  • Newspaper headlines spoke of the caftan as “a timeless symbol of Moroccan elegance , “ and a bridge between heritage and contemporary fashion.

 Other international fashion weeks

Specialized fashion articles confirm that the Moroccan kaftan:

  • He appeared at Paris Fashion Week as part of shows dedicated to Eastern fashion.

  • It shone at events such as Malaga Fashion Week (Pasarela Larios) in Spain, one of the longest fashion show runways in Europe, where the Moroccan caftan received extensive coverage.

All of this makes the kaftan present today on the global fashion map not as an exotic object, but as a recognized haute couture piece .


 The caftan and celebrities: from queens to Hollywood stars

One of the strongest pieces of evidence for the universality of the Moroccan caftan is the list of names that have worn it on prominent occasions, with clear journalistic documentation:

 Queens, princesses, and politicians

According to an extensive journalistic investigation published in 2025, we can mention:

  • Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands (when she was a princess) : She wore an elegant Moroccan velvet caftan when she presented the Crown Prince to the press in 1967.

  • Lee Radziwill (Jacqueline Kennedy’s sister): She appeared in a Moroccan kaftan in a photoshoot for Vogue magazine in London, in the 1960s.

  • Talitha Getty : The Bohemian icon of Marrakech in the 1960s, photographed in Moroccan kaftans in Marrakech and Naples, one of which is brocade Fassi.

  • Umm Kulthum : In her famous concert in Rabat in 1968, she appeared in an embroidered Moroccan velvet caftan, which impressed both the Moroccan and Eastern audiences.

  • Souad Hosni : She was photographed in Morocco wearing a traditional Moroccan takchita/kaftan with local jewelry.

  • Hillary Clinton :

    • She wore a Moroccan kaftan during her visit to Marrakech in 1999 with her daughter Chelsea.

    • In 2000, she received the King of Morocco at the White House wearing a Moroccan kaftan/takchita with gold embroidery.

    • She was later seen in 2017 in New York wearing a kaftan at a wedding.

  • Camilla (today Queen Consort of Charles) :

    • She wore a green Moroccan kaftan to a reception at the Irish Embassy in London.

    • It is the same dress she wore to a previous reception at Buckingham Palace.

    • The articles document that the caftan was a gift from King Mohammed VI during an official visit to Morocco in 2011.

These examples show that the Moroccan caftan has entered:

  • European palaces (Drakenstein, Buckingham),

  • The White House,

  • Legendary concert halls in New York.

 International stars in Moroccan kaftans

International cultural and fashion reports document that:

  • Mariah Carey, Hillary Clinton, Haifa Wehbe, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Haddad, Jennifer Lopez and others have appeared at events wearing the Moroccan kaftan, according to press reports since 2013.

  • A recent article about the Moroccan caftan mentions that Oprah Winfrey, Kim Kardashian, Uma Thurman, Alicia Keys, Beyoncé, and Paris Hilton have worn Moroccan caftans or ones directly inspired by the Moroccan caftan, including on the red carpet.

These examples do not mean that every caftan worn by a star is always “100% Moroccan,” but the sources mentioned explicitly state “Moroccan Kaftan” and link it to the Moroccan heritage, which reinforces the image of the caftan in the global imagination as a piece with a specific Moroccan identity .

 The caftan in Western fashion culture

Furthermore, fashion experts point out that:

  • The caftan – and especially the Moroccan caftan – is now considered in France to be part of the haute couture category , with Moroccan designers presenting it every year in major shows.

  • Many international fashion houses such as Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, and Christian Dior have been inspired by the Moroccan caftan and have presented versions of it, which has strongly introduced it into the specialized press and elite fashion circles.


 Summary of the strategy for the “Made in Morocco” brand

All the above data—historical, cultural, institutional, and symbolic—intersect to confirm that:

  1. The Moroccan caftan is authentic in terms of its development in Morocco.

    • It was established in the royal court and Moroccan cities for centuries,

    • It developed with unique local sewing and decoration techniques.

    • Today it is presented in official files to UNESCO as an intangible Moroccan heritage.

  2. The Moroccan caftan is beloved and popular both inside and outside the country.

    • A fundamental garment in Moroccan life rituals,

    • Strongly present in Algeria, the Middle East, Europe, and America through the Moroccan community.

    • Today it is spreading on social media platforms in modern forms that bring it closer to new generations.

  3. The Moroccan caftan is present on the highest international platforms.

    • At Caftan, Caftan du Maroc and Marrakech Festivals,

    • At the Oriental Fashion Show and fashion weeks in Paris and Malaga,

    • In presidential and royal palaces, and on the red carpet with the world’s most famous stars.

  4. The caftan is a ready-made model of luxury “Made in Morocco”.

    • It relies on a network of craftsmen, designers, and workshops.

    • It carries a high added value compared to ready-made clothing.

    • He possesses a positive global image that can be built upon in:

The Moroccan caftan is not a matter of “dispute over ownership of a garment,” but rather living proof of Morocco’s ability to transform its heritage into economic and cultural soft power .
It encapsulates the spirit of the “Made in Morocco” slogan :
authentic heritage,
meticulous craftsmanship,
adaptability to modernization,
and undeniable global appeal.

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